Before You Buy: 27 May 2006

It is expected that the customer has knowledge about how to run a computer. If not, then they should make sure that one of their crew has a good working knowledge about computers.

The most trouble comes from the customers or crew not knowing how to operate computers or not knowing what they are trying to achieve, or not understanding what the logger and its sensors do.

Make sure that the computer you will use has a 9 pin serial port on the back. RS232C standard. Many laptops today are being made without the serial port.

If possible, get the software (it's free) installed on the computer that you are going to use first, and find someone with an FXL system and make sure your computer and download cable will download from their logger first by doing a dummy recording. This will prove that the computer and download cable will work when you do the installation and commissioning on your own logger. That eliminates one unknown. If you have done an installation and go to download and it does not work, what isn't working, the computer or the logger?????

Please read the trouble shooting page for further tips about what stops the computer from downloading the data.

Be aware that it is common for the customer and crew to take over an hour deciding where the logger will be fitted. There will be considerable time lost in deciding where everything will go, however, this can be a good thing. Install it once, not twice.

Be aware that the yoke has to come off the pinion on the diff to fit the aluminium collar with the magnets in it. This can be a big job, especially if the vehicle has a coupler on the end of the transmission and no driveshaft, where the trans is connected directly to the pinion. Sometimes the engine may have to come out. (Dragsters and Altereds). The collar has to be fitted in a lathe and the center turned to slightly less that the yoke diameter. The sides may be trimmed a little, and the hole may be radiused. This can be a time consuming job, and should be the first job started. Do not heat the collar as the magnets WILL BE DESTROYED at 80 degrees Celsius

Be aware that if you have to install magnets, then they must go in so that the SOUTH POLE of the magnet is facing out and faces the sensor.

The SOUTH POLE of a magnet will attract the NORTH POINTER of a compass.

Traditionally, the NORTH POLE of a magnet is RED and the SOUTH POLE is BLUE.

The diff collar has the magnets pressed in by the manufacturer to guarantee they are in correctly.

The magnets supplied are Neodymiun Rare Earth magnets and are destroyed if they exceed 80 deg C.

They are Nickel plated and smooth, so if you have to install them, then be aware that glue will normally not hold them.

It is better to press fit them if they are being fitted in Aluminium.

Two sizes of magnets are offered. Normally 8 mm x 5 mm (true metric) magnets are used on the diff and 1/4" x 1/4" (true imperial) magnets are used on the front wheel and the front of the crank if needed. The 8 mm true metric magnets just happen to be 0.0024" bigger than 5/16" so if you drilled a very clean 5/16" hole, then the 8 x 5 mm magnets will press in with a superb fit. The edge of the hole should still be peened as an extra precaution to prevent the magnet from flinging out.

If the vehicle has a magneto ignition, then it MUST have RF suppression leads in the High Voltage ( Secondary ) side of the ignition. These are the spiral wound type commonly used in drag racing.

It is a condition of sale that the vehicle will have suppression leads. All MSD ignitions use RF suppression, spiral wound spark plug leads as standard. All other ignition types must use a similar type of RF suppression leads.

SAFETY HAZARD. The thermocouple extension cables have a stainless steel braid, and it is very abrasive. It can wear through the insulation of other wires. (This has happened to one customer) It is also a skin irritant. There can be small pieces of the braid wire sticking out and it you run your hand along the wires, you may (probably will) get pricked by these bits of broken braid.

Cable Lengths. The lengths HAVE to be in writing. I WILL NOT takes the lengths over the phone.

Certain cable lengths have to be measured before purchasing any logger. Only cables for the required sensors need to be measured. The following list is a total list of all options possible. Customers simply make a list of which features they are purchasing, then measure up their vehicle for the wiring loom. Be aware that only a certain length of cable is included in the price. Any more than two meters ( 6 ft 7 inches ) has to be charged out. All the wiring except the thermocouple cables is white ETFE insulated standard aircraft wiring. ETFE is a form of Teflon.

• Logger to Earth (near the MSD is OK, but not near the coil.)
• Logger to On Off switch.
• Logger to Tacho terminal of electronic ignition OR
• Logger to Front of crank only if using an optional Crank RPM Pickup kit.
• Logger to Input Shaft only if using the optional Input Shaft RPM Pickup kit.
• Logger to Drive Shaft or Output Shaft of a motorcycle or Jack Shaft of a Junior Dragster.
• Logger to Right Hand Front Wheel.
• Logger to Wide Open Throttle Switch. ( Wont work without this function )
• Logger to Transbrake/Two Step Voltage Seeking Record Inhibit like the original MSD and new Dyna ignitions.
• Logger to Two Step Earth Seeking Record Inhibit style, like the older Dyna or newer MSD ignitions.
• Logger to Shift Light. ( Only works on a switched +12 volt light, not on the LED shift lights. )
• Logger to each thermocouple in each exhaust pipe. ( Maximum length is 2 meters or 6 ft 7 inches. Any longer lengths cost $8 per meter )
• Logger to each pressure sender, if purchased .
• Logger to G Meter, if purchased.
• Logger to both oxygen sensors. This wire is now standard on all models (Sensors not supplied)
• Logger to Volts monitor. This is any point you want to monitor, typically the voltage going to the MSD
• Logger to each Suspension Movement sensor, only if purchased.

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